Ela não é universalmente amada e seus vinhos estão além da maioria de nós, mas Stephen Brook é escravo do infatigável Lalou Bize-Leroy
Lalou Bize-Leroy dificilmente parece diferente de quando ela costumava vir a Londres em meados da década de 1980 para apresentar os vinhos do Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, do qual sua família é co-proprietária. Ela tem uma figura esguia, de duende, com brilhantes olhos azul-acinzentados e cabelos que agora são loiros prateados em vez de louros puros. Suas roupas são chiques, mas discretas. É totalmente plausível pensar nessa figura esguia e esguia como uma alpinista dedicada - o que ela tem sido há décadas. Até que alguém faz uma pausa para considerar que, na sua idade, ela pode querer dar um tempo. Mas nem um pouco disso.
Bize-Leroy vive e respira o terroir da Borgonha. Até 1988, sua principal preocupação era o negócio da família négociant, Maison Leroy, que ela ainda dirige, mantendo as adegas de Meursault abastecidas com um milhão de garrafas do excelente Borgonha. Seu bisavô a fundou em 1868, mas foi seu pai quem começou a acumular estoques de vinhos velhos a partir de 1919. ‘Ainda temos algumas garrafas dessa safra à venda.’ Sem mencionar todas as grandes safras desde então. 'A principal ocupação de meu pai era administrar o Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, então ele nunca chegou a vender os vinhos que comprava.' Bize-Leroy juntou-se a ele em 1955.
Tal experiência e perspectiva a colocam em uma posição formidável dentro da hierarquia da Borgonha. ‘Não tenho contratos com produtores e começo do zero todos os anos. Se gosto de vinho, compro. Se não, eu não quero. 'Com tais reservas enormes para sacar, ela não se sente obrigada a comprar todos os anos.
Os vinhos Maison Leroy são extremamente caros, mas ela tem orgulho total deles. Ela prova a variedade cerca de uma vez por ano e decide o que lançar, o que manter. Freqüentemente, os lançados são safras maduras, rapidamente adquiridas por colecionadores, especialmente nos EUA e no Japão. Ela também é proprietária do Domaine d’Auvenay de 4 hectares em St-Romain, que seu marido Marcel Bize administrou até sua morte há alguns anos. Agora ela administra sozinha. Apesar de seu endereço modesto, Auvenay tem vários grands crus em seu portfólio, mas as quantidades são mínimas e a fila para alocações é longa.
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