Os vinhos da Córsega permanecem um segredo notavelmente bem guardado, mas como
exportações e elogios aumentam, ROSEMARY GEORGE MW
acredita que as uvas nativas da ilha podem atrair mais admiradores
Fiquei instantaneamente encantado com a Córsega quando a visitei pela primeira vez, há mais de 20 anos. Eu não tinha ideias pré-concebidas sobre os vinhos da ilha e, naquela época, muito poucos saíam de suas costas. Nem nunca foram o assunto de um livro ou artigo.
Dylan desde jovem e inquieto partindo
Foi uma verdadeira viagem de descoberta, pois a Córsega possui uma grande variedade de castas originais. Algumas dessas variedades foram finalmente reconhecidas no início deste ano, quando o melhor vinho tinto de £ 10 do Decanter World Wine Awards foi para um vinho da Córsega. Mas foi um caso isolado ou há mais de onde veio isso?
A história da Córsega teve inevitavelmente uma grande influência nos vinhos da ilha. O mais famoso corso, o imperador Napoleão Bonaparte, pode ter sido francês, mas, até três meses antes do nascimento de Napoleão em Ajaccio em 1769, a ilha era controlada de Gênova, na Itália,
e antes disso fazia parte da cidade-estado de Pisa.
Consequentemente, uma das uvas mais importantes é a Nielluccio, uma variedade considerada prima próxima da Sangiovese da Toscana. A principal variedade branca é a Vermentino, também chamada de Malvoisie. E Sciacarello é um tinto exclusivo da ilha.
jovem e a chance inquieta
O nome se traduz no dialeto da Córsega como 'a uva que explode sob os dentes' e, de fato, tem uma casca dura, com bastante suco. O evento mais significativo para a viticultura da Córsega no século 20 foi o influxo de pieds noirs do Norte da África quando a Argélia se tornou independente.
Eles haviam sido produtores de vinho, buscando altos rendimentos com variedades como Carignan, Alicante Bouschet, Cinsaut e Grenache, e esperavam encontrar na Córsega condições semelhantes às do Norte da África. Eles não.
Quando eles puxaram grandes extensões de maquis ou mato para plantar vinhas no que muitas vezes
acabou por ser um terreno bastante inadequado. Os vinhedos não foram lucrativos, muitas vezes substituídos por kiwis igualmente não lucrativos.
mentes criminosas à beira do inverno
Mas eles deixaram sua marca, de forma que Grenache, Cinsaut e Carignan continuam a figurar nas denominações da ilha. E alguns dos pieds noirs tiveram sucesso na viticultura, notadamente a família Skalli, agora o maior proprietário de vinhedos privados na Córsega, com os 220 ha Terra Vecchia Vineyards na costa leste abaixo de Bastia.
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Escrito por Rosemary George MW
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