Os crus de champanhe revelam sua exclusividade, mas seus 17 vinhedos grand cru permanecem desconhecidos. GILES FALLOWFIELD pergunta o que cada um traz para a mesa e por que eles não aparecem no rótulo.
O champanhe tem muitas semelhanças com a Borgonha, seu vinhedo vizinho mais próximo. Os crus de champanhe têm as variedades de uvas Pinot Noir e Chardonnay em comum e, portanto, se você olhar além das bolhas no champanhe, produz vinhos com um perfil de sabor semelhante. Ambos usam o mesmo sistema de classificação de qualidade, com os melhores vinhedos em cada denominação designados como grand cru e premier cru no nível seguinte.
No entanto, embora na Borgonha os termos grand e premier cru estejam claramente escritos nos rótulos da grande maioria dos vinhos autorizados a usá-los, eles não aparecem em muitas garrafas de champanhe. Por que não? Em parte porque na era moderna, as vendas de champanhe crus são dominadas por marcas como Moët & Chandon, Laurent-Perrier e Veuve Clicquot. Como resultado, o conceito de Grand Cru Champagne não foi realmente desenvolvido. Mas é mais provável que os consumidores encontrem esses termos no futuro.
Então, o que é Grand Cru Champagne, por que não se vendem mais vinhos como tal? E por que os melhores vinhedos de Champagne não são tão conhecidos como Chambertin, Clos Vougeot e Le Montrachet?
Em Champagne, todas as 318 aldeias são classificadas de qualidade no sistema Echelle des Crus (literalmente 'escada de vegetação') e recebem uma classificação entre 100 e 80% (a classificação mais baixa). Cerca de 257 deles são avaliados em algum lugar entre 80 e 89. Um degrau acima vêm os 44 premiers crus, que variam em sua classificação de 90 a 99. No topo da pilha estão as 17 aldeias grand cru, todas avaliadas como 100% no Echelle des Crus.
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