Compreendendo o Hermitage- Winestealssd.com

A colina de Hermitage se eleva acima da cidade de Tain. Crédito: uso individual

A colina de Hermitage é uma vista esplêndida, de tirar o fôlego. Um reino insular de grande alcance, ergue-se acima do Ródano em um ponto onde o poderoso rio serpenteia para o leste, suas encostas dobráveis cinzentas e austeras no inverno, mas elevadas pela luz e vegetação do verão. Ao longo de seus flancos, uma escada de vinhedos em socalcos e paredes de pedra seca desce para a cidade de Tain abaixo.

Em termos de área de superfície, o Hermitage é minúsculo - meros 140 hectares de predominantemente Syrah uvas com cerca de um quarto da vinha plantada com o branco Marsanne e Roussanne. A partir dessas variedades, são produzidos vinhos robustos e de longa maturação.

O tinto Syrah tem uma cor profunda, firme e intensa, com uma panóplia de especiarias e sabor a fruta escura. O branco, com predominância de Marsanne, é gordo com frutas e glicerol, o que melhor mostra um equilíbrio de frescor no final. Maduro, o vermelho parece fino, velho Bordeaux , enquanto o branco se intensifica em aroma e sabor com notas de cera, maçã e marmelo.

Origens

O Hermitage foi reconhecido como um dos grandes vinhos da França por um tempo considerável. As origens da vinha seriam romanas, nome derivado de um eremita que, segundo a lenda, cultivava a videira na colina na Idade Média.

No século 17, o Hermitage vermelho e branco estava sendo servido em círculos aristocráticos em toda a Europa, o branco muitas vezes mais valorizado do que o tinto, que era usado para reforçar a qualidade de Bordeaux nos séculos 18 e 19. A escuridão e o desinteresse do início do século 20 permitiram que os vinhedos caíssem, mas a reputação do vinho renasceu no final dos anos 1970.

Cool Climate Syrah

Hermitage fica no paralelo 45 e é delimitado por um clima continental. Em outras palavras, está no limite norte para amadurecer Syrah. O aspecto geralmente sul da denominação é um fator crítico, permitindo que as uvas amadureçam até um certo nível de maturação de açúcar.

Aqueles com vinhedos bem mantidos que colhem tarde procuram maturidade fenólica para conter as notas herbáceas e um toque duro para os vinhos. O equilíbrio, no mínimo, é mais Médoc do que Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Terroir

Há um equívoco de que a colina de Hermitage é apenas um enorme bloco de granito. O lado poente da colina é de facto granítico, outrora ligado ao Maciço Central. Mas no centro e no leste, outros padrões de solo podem ser encontrados.

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