Bordéus 2010 Lafite Rothschild
O que é esse pong? LINDA MURPHY examina o mundo dos Brettanomyces muito difamado, incompreendido, mas, em alguns aspectos, apreciado.
No primeiro ano de minha carreira vinícola, servi vinho em uma exibição de garrafas importantes de todo o mundo. Em uma pausa do estande, dei a volta na sala para provar muitas das outras ofertas.
Quando voltei para a minha mesa, o enólogo ao meu lado perguntou: ‘Alguma coisa realmente te impressionou?’ ‘O Châteauneuf-du-Pape de 1989 do Château de Beaucastel’, respondi. Ele riu: 'Você deve amar Brett.' Embora eu não soubesse o que Brett - Brettanomyces (breh-tan-uh-MYE-vê) - era na época, eu adorava o caráter terroso, coriáceo, de bacon defumado e tempero do Beaucastel , fruta carnuda e estrutura firme.
Eu aprenderia mais tarde que Brett, uma levedura natural que não é prejudicial para o consumo, mas pode fazer coisas boas e ruins para os aromas e sabores do vinho, seria um tópico quente entre os produtores de vinho, sem nenhum vencedor claro no debate.
Os produtores de vinho chamam de 'palavra B' e, na melhor das hipóteses, Brettanomyces pode dar ao vinho o que muitos acreditam ser atributos positivos que adicionam complexidade e profundidade: sabores terrosos de couro de luva, carne defumada, gordura de bacon, tabaco, trufa, cravo e outros salgados especiarias.
No entanto, quando B fica ruim, pode dar ao vinho o fedor ofensivo de curral, esterco, emplastros, cachorro molhado, manta de cavalo suada, excremento de rato e anti-séptico. Temendo o último, muitos produtores de vinho em todo o mundo fazem tudo o que podem para evitar a contaminação de Brett.
Outros encorajam um pouco disso, para aquele grama extra de interesse, mas têm que trabalhar duro para que o fermento selvagem não supere o caráter varietal e frutado. Outros, bem, vamos apenas dizer que se a limpeza está próxima da santidade, alguns produtores de vinho não vão à igreja. Aqueles que afirmam goût de terroir por seus engarrafamentos desagradáveis estão apenas dando desculpas para práticas anti-higiênicas.
Amigo ou inimigo?
Existem várias variedades de - e teorias sobre - Brettanomyces, e uma discussão completa requer uma tese de microbiologia. Mais simplesmente, existem dois compostos que alteram o vinho identificados com Brett: 4-etil guaiacol (4-eg), que contribui com o que muitos pensam para bacon e especiarias e 4-etilfenol 4-ep), com seus emplastros negativos, cachorro molhado e características medicinais.
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