Terroir é uma daquelas palavras da moda que todos no mundo do vinho abraçam, mas o que isso realmente significa? E tem realmente o efeito sobre os vinhos que os produtores afirmam? Rupert Joy vai fundo para descobrir
Terroir é uma daquelas palavras da moda que todos no mundo do vinho abraçam, mas o que isso realmente significa? E tem realmente o efeito sobre os vinhos que os produtores afirmam? Rupert Joy vai fundo para descobrir
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Ao sul de Condrieu, no norte do Ródano, fica a pequena denominação de Château-Grillet. Seus 3,4 hectares de vinhas nas encostas íngremes de um anfiteatro natural produzem quantidades mínimas de vinho da mesma variedade de uva e solos de seu vizinho muito maior, Condrieu. Mas ele foi reconhecido desde 1936 como um AC separado e vende por muito mais. A sua proprietária, Isabelle Baratin-Canet, sublinha que a originalidade do vinho feito a partir dos solos graníticos e da exposição virada a sul é reconhecida há séculos. Mas alguns de seus vizinhos questionam se há tal diferença entre os terroirs de Château-Grillet e Condrieu.
A ideia de que áreas particulares de terra produzem vinhos particularmente excelentes não é nova. O filósofo John Locke, que visitou Bordeaux em 1677, observou a 'particularidade do solo' do Château Haut-Brion que o distinguia de seus vizinhos. Um livro do Abade Arnoux, publicado em Londres em 1728, atribuiu a grandeza de Montrachet na Borgonha a uma faixa particular de terra na Côte d'Or.
O que é um fenômeno moderno é o uso da palavra 'terroir' para descrever a ideia. Suas conotações francesas originais eram pejorativas. Até meados do século 20, um vin terroité significava um vinho rústico e terroso com, na melhor das hipóteses, uma espécie de charme caipira e, na pior, defeitos. Um vinho com goût de terroir (sabor de terroir) era um vinho feito de má qualidade, com gosto de uvas verdes ou podres. A ideia do terroir como um atributo mais positivo não surgiu até o nascimento do sistema AC na década de 1930.
Todo mundo tem sua própria definição de terroir. Talvez o mais simples seja o do escritor americano de vinhos Matt Kramer, que o descreve como 'alguma coisa'. A maioria das definições francesas, incluindo a do INAO (o órgão responsável pelo sistema AC da França), inclui quatro elementos principais: as características físicas de um lugar (especialmente solo e exposição), seu clima, a variedade de uva usada e o papel desempenhado pelo homem .
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Poucas pessoas contestariam a premissa básica de que os vinhos derivam certas características do local onde suas uvas são cultivadas e que o homem desempenha um papel na expressão dessas características. Mas dado que quase todos os produtores de vinho hoje em dia afirmam produzir vinhos que respeitam o terroir e afirmam adotar uma abordagem 'não intervencionista', o consumidor tem todos os motivos para se perguntar o que terroir significa na prática.
bacharelado no paraíso 2016 spoilers
As raízes do terroir
Talvez porque a palavra seja semelhante a 'terreno', tendemos a associar terroir principalmente ao solo. Isso, por sua vez, pode estimular a percepção de que os vinhos obtêm um sabor diretamente do solo em que são cultivados.
Um exemplo clássico é o Chablis, um dos vinhos mais famosos do mundo. Apesar de ser feito de uma variedade de uva onipresente, a expressão Chablis do Chardonnay é diferente de qualquer outra região. Os vinhos mais conceituados vêm da suave marga calcária Kimmeridgiana, composta de cascas de ostra pré-históricas.
Produtores e redatores de vinho costumam fazer uma ligação entre o sabor de iodo duro característico do vinho e a geologia da região. 'De que outra forma você pode explicar as notas iodadas em Chablis se não pela composição de seu solo?', Pergunta Bernard Billaud-Simon. _Você não encontra esse sabor em Chardonnays cultivados em outro lugar.
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Artigos Interessantes
