A hierarquia da Borgonha remonta à de Bordéus, mas é baseada na denominação, e não no produtor. Benjamin Lewin MW investiga se a classificação por terroir resiste ao teste do tempo
lei e ordem 1ª temporada, episódio 8
Dois eventos em 1855 estabeleceram estilos contrastantes para a classificação do vinho, e suas consequências reverberaram desde então. A mais conhecida é a classificação dos vinhos do Médoc: a classificação de 1855 não só ainda domina os vinhos da Margem Esquerda, mas fez da classificação por preço o modelo para todos os vinhos de Bordéus.
É menos conhecido que, no mesmo ano, Lavalle publicou seu Plan Topographique da Côte d'Or da Borgonha, um mapa detalhado de todos os vinhedos de Santenay a Dijon, classificando-os como Tête de Cuvée, Première, Deuxième e até Troisième Cuvée.
Esta foi a base para mapear a Côte d'Or em mais de 400 denominações quando o sistema de apelação contrôlée foi introduzido em 1936. Hoje, cada vinhedo na Borgonha tem seu lugar em uma hierarquia que desce do grand cru, ao premier cru, ao vinho da aldeia , até a Borgonha genérica.
Nenhuma das classificações pretendia ser diferente de uma descrição contemporânea do status quo, mas ambas se tornaram imutáveis. Desde 1855, Bordéus é classificado por preço, enquanto Borgonha é classificado por terroir. Em minha análise do Bordeaux (Decanter, janeiro de 2010), a classificação por preço não envelhece bem por mais de uma década. Então, como a classificação por terroir se mantém ao longo dos séculos?
Evolução de preço
Toda classificação começa com preço. A primeira classificação na Borgonha baseava-se no preço médio que o vinho de cada região cobrava no século XIX. Os vinhos eram vendidos naquela época por negociantes com pouca atenção aos produtores individuais, e os preços eram baseados em áreas definidas de forma mais ampla do que os de hoje.
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