À medida que o termo 'mineralidade' se torna cada vez mais na moda, a busca por uma definição ganha impulso. Sarah Jane Evans MW coleta opiniões de vinicultores e pesquisadores de todo o mundo.
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O vocabulário do vinho é um viajante pobre. As palavras que usamos são notoriamente específicas de uma cultura, de damsons a rambutans e wakame a açúcar de cevada. Agora, há uma nova palavra surgindo nas listas de vinhos e nas notas de degustação, causando confusão. Embora ‘mineralidade’ seja um termo que considero útil, não há uma visão definitiva sobre o que significa.
Os vinhos sendo descritos como minerais também são geralmente descritos como 'elegantes', 'magros', 'puros' e 'ácidos'. Eles têm o gosto de lamber pedras molhadas e muitas vezes uma textura de giz para combinar. Alguns argumentam que isso se aplica apenas a vinhos brancos, mas qualquer pessoa que tenha provado um Priorat dos solos de llicorella (ardósia) da área sabe que também ocorre em tintos Alguns argumentam que você pode sentir o cheiro, a maioria que aparece no palato.
O pressuposto é que os vinhos minerais são superiores aos vinhos frutados do 'mercado de massa', do Novo Mundo. Têm uma imagem romântica, que implica que são feitos à mão por artesãos e exprimem o mistério do solo, tendo o viticultor como mediador mágico. Exemplos típicos são encontrados em Chablis, em Priorat, nas Mencías de Ribeira Sacra e Bierzo e, claro, em Loire Sauvignon Blancs, e Rieslings de Mosel e Rheingau na Alemanha, e Wachau e Kremstal na Áustria. Observe que esses são exemplos europeus. Este não é apenas um caráter europeu, mas parece mais proeminente em locais onde os vinhos mostram menos fruta e mais acidez.
Um termo recente
O fato surpreendente é que a 'mineralidade' só começou a ser ouvida na década de 1980. Não apareceu em The Taste of Wine de Emile Peynaud (1983), ou Aroma Wheel de Ann Noble (1984), ou mesmo em The Oxford Companion to Wine (2006 - embora esteja presente na 4ª edição prevista para 2015). Curiosamente, os alunos WSET me dizem que seus tutores os aconselham a não usá-lo em notas de degustação. No entanto, é um termo da moda, bem estabelecido entre os aficionados do vinho.
De onde vem essa obsessão? Afinal, entre muitos consumidores, o caráter mineral de 'pedras lambidas' é visto como negativo. A viticultura ou a produção de vinho mudaram? Ou estamos apenas sendo seduzidos por um marketing inteligente? Muitos produtores o veem como uma expressão do terroir, enquanto alguns especialistas em enologia o atribuem a compostos produzidos na vinificação. Seja qual for a origem, não há uma definição consensual de mineralidade, mas para muitos, inclusive eu, é uma palavra muito útil.
Fato ou ficção?
Vamos começar com o que é conhecido. A International Mineralogical Association define 'mineral' como 'um elemento ou composto químico que é normalmente cristalino e que foi formado como resultado de processos geológicos'. Então as vinhas retiram elementos do solo e isso dá aos vinhos seu sabor distinto? Direita? Errado! Os elementos minerais do vinho são minúsculos, apenas o potássio e o cálcio, chegando perto de 1.000 partes por milhão. Não há dúvida de prová-los. Como resultado, a ciência dá pouca importância à nota de degustação 'mineral'.
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Veja os cinco melhores vinhos de Sarah Jane Evans para um gostinho de mineralidade:
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