Barolo 2009,
Tom Maresca ficou extremamente desapontado com esta degustação de 2009, citando o fracasso dos vinicultores em abordar o quão difícil era a safra como uma das razões para esta exibição 'sombria'.
‘Poucos anos de 2009 justificaram o otimismo sobre sua longevidade, e a maioria dos produtores falou de 2009 como uma safra para beber a curto prazo’
A safra de 2009 de Barolo vai confrontar os consumidores com algumas verdades duras e alguns vinhos ásperos. Provei bem mais de 200 exemplos de Barolo 2009 no Nebbiolo Prima em Alba em maio. A maioria dos vinhos em oferta ao longo dos cinco dias do evento não só carecia da cor clássica Nebbiolo, como quase não apresentava aromas ou sabores Nebbiolo.
Amo o Barolo e respeito e admiro muitos de seus produtores por sua dedicação e clareza de visão. No entanto, devo dizer que nesta safra o desempenho de muitos deles não foi simplesmente insuficiente, foi desanimador.
Claro que houve exceções: vários produtores - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, para alguns - acabaram Barolo bastante bebível. Alguns - principalmente Pio Cesare e Massolino-Vigna Rionda - até acreditam no potencial de envelhecimento de seu vinho. Essa opinião foi frequentemente repetida por comerciantes e compradores, que provaram uma seleção desses vinhos uma semana antes dos jornalistas, e com os produtores (não cegos). Mas para o meu paladar - e na opinião de muitos jornalistas com quem conversei - a maioria dos fabricantes de Barolo parece ter subestimado severamente a dificuldade desta safra. Poucos anos de 2009 justificaram o otimismo sobre sua longevidade, e a maioria dos produtores falou de 2009 como uma safra para beber em curto prazo.
Giacomo Conterno, da adega Aldo Conterno no município de Monforte, foi um dos produtores mais declarados. Ele disse: ‘2009 foi a safra de um viticultor. No final de agosto, algumas vinhas [Nebbiolo] já estavam quase maduras, e algumas estavam completamente verdes - quase 30 dias de diferença entre elas. O que você fez sobre isso determinou o tipo de vinho que você fez. 'A avaliação geralmente otimista de Consorzio sobre a colheita deste ano é muito cautelosa:
'A vindima de 2009 também será lembrada pelo seu padrão de maturação irregular… Em termos de maturação tecnológica, a vindima pode situar-se entre 2003 e 2007… No que diz respeito à maturação fenólica… os dados encontrados nas uvas foram comparáveis aos de 2003… nesta safra, os resultados nem sempre melhoravam com o atraso da colheita. '
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Escrito por Tom Maresca
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