Ânforas espanholas conhecidas como tinajas assumiram o lugar dos barriques da vinícola Elisabetta Foradori em Trentino
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Simon Woolf investiga relatos de uma contra-revolução nas adegas italianas ...
Há um momento breve, mas dramático no filme de 2014 de Paolo Casalis Barolo Boys: a história de uma revolução quando o enólogo Elio Altare leva uma motosserra para uma linha imponente de botti (grandes barris de carvalho tradicionais) na adega de sua família.
Seu ritual de destruição desses veneráveis vasos, decretado em 1983, tinha um propósito prático - abrir espaço para barricas de carvalho francês menores recém-adquiridas. Mas o potente simbolismo era claro - o botti supostamente fétido e decadente representava a velha ordem. Linhas de barricas perfeitas recém-cooperadas enviaram uma mensagem clara de modernidade e estilo.
Role para baixo para ver a seleção de vinhos italianos de Woolf feitos sem carvalho
O que parecia de vanguarda em 1983 havia se tornado de rigueur para prestigiosas vinícolas italianas no final dos anos 1990. Mas, mais recentemente, a carícia de carvalho decisiva do barrique caiu em desuso, de Friuli no nordeste até a Sicília no sul e todos os pontos intermediários.
Os produtores de vinho da Itália estão cada vez mais mudando para materiais e recipientes alternativos para fermentação e envelhecimento, variando do arcano ao definitivo.
Onde havia barriques, agora podem ser ânforas, qvevris georgianos, ovos de concreto ou grandes barris de acácia. Isso é apenas a rotina cíclica da esteira da moda ou parte de um movimento mais decisivo em direção a uma maior autenticidade e expressão?
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Notas de degustação e pontuações de Woolf para uma seleção de vinhos italianos feitos sem carvalho:
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